Most of us aren’t growing potatoes from tiny seeds. If you’ve ever left a forgotten spud in the back of your pantry only to find it sprouting wild tendrils, you already know the magic of seed potatoes. These humble chunks of tuber are the secret to a bumper crop, but not all potatoes are created equal. Here’s how to choose the best, avoid duds, and get your patch pumping out spuds like a pro.
What Even Is a Seed Potato? (And Why You Shouldn’t Plant Grocery Store Spuds)
Seed potatoes aren’t seeds—they’re whole or cut tubers packed with enough energy to kickstart a new plant. Each dimpled “eye” is a potential sprout, waiting to dig into the soil and multiply. But before you raid the supermarket bin, listen up:
- Grocery potatoes are a gamble. They’re often sprayed with anti-sprouting chemicals, and worse, they might carry blight or viruses that’ll wreck your crop.
- Certified seed potatoes are your safest bet. Grown in controlled conditions (some even in Scotland’s aphid-free chill), they’re guaranteed disease-free. Fancy options like lab-grown “micro-tubers” exist too—perfect for rare heirlooms.
Pro tip: Skip any tuber with long, pale sprouts (they’ll snap off). Look for firm, blemish-free potatoes with stubby green shoots.
Picking Your Potato: A Match Made in Garden Heaven
Not all potatoes play nice in every climate or kitchen. Ask yourself:
- “What’s my endgame?”
- Fluffy mash or crispy fries? High-starch varieties like Russets break down beautifully.
- Salads or soups? Waxy types (think Red Pontiac) hold their shape.
- Showstoppers? Purple Majesty or Magic Molly add color to your plate.
- “How long am I willing to wait?”
- First Earlies (10 weeks): Swift, tender “new” potatoes—great for containers.
- Maincrop (20 weeks): Big, storage-friendly spuds for baking bins.
- Late Summer Planting: Some varieties (like Nicola) thrive in autumn with frost protection.
- “Is blight a problem here?”
If your area’s humid, lean toward resistant types like Sarpo Mira.
11 Rockstar Varieties to Try
- Yukon Gold – The MVP. Buttery, versatile, and low-fuss.
- Kennebec – Thin-skinned and blight-resistant. Soups adore it.
- Purple Majesty – Jet-purple flesh packed with antioxidants. Killer roasted.
- Swedish Peanut Fingerling – Heirloom gems with a buttery bite.
- Daisy Gold – Foolproof for beginners, with nematode resistance.
- Red Gold – Nutty flavor, rosy skin—perfect for smashing.
- Masquerade – Striped like a carnival mask; mild and waxy.
- Princess Laratte – A French gourmet favorite. Sweet, nutty, très chic.
- Rio Grande Russet – Fast-maturing and great for fries.
- Magic Molly – Deep purple inside and out. Grill ’em to impress.
- Red Pontiac – Drought-tolerant and reliable for boiling.
The Great Debate: Seed Potatoes vs. True Potato Seeds
Seed Potatoes (The Reliable Choice)
- Pros: Predictable, easy, and ready to plant. Stick ’em in dirt, and they’ll grow.
- Cons: Limited variety options; can carry soil diseases if not rotated.
True Potato Seeds (TPS) (For the Adventurous)
- Pros: Wild genetic diversity (think purple stripes, crazy flavors). Disease-resistant.
- Cons: Unpredictable yields. Requires babying seedlings indoors.
Bottom line: Stick with seed potatoes unless you’re a tinkerer with time to spare.
Chitting: The Sprouting Hack for Earlier Harvests
Want potatoes two weeks sooner? Chit them. Here’s how:
- 6 weeks before planting, pop tubers in an egg carton, eyes up.
- Leave in a bright, cool spot (50–60°F)—a windowsill works.
- Watch for sturdy green shoots (not the pale, leggy ones).
- Plant when sprouts are 1-inch long, and protect from frost.
Why bother? Strong sprouts = faster growth and heavier yields.
Final Tip: Skip the Supermarket
Those bargain-bin potatoes might save you a buck, but they’ll cost you in stunted plants or diseased soil. Spend a little extra on certified seed potatoes—your future self (and your roast dinners) will thank you.